Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jun 8, 2012 19:13:59 GMT -5
If this track takes off and he decides to run Chevettes on a regular basis, would anyone be interested in adding a Pure Stock division?
Very little modifications, max compression limit, stock wheels, go back to the basics where you knock the windows out, put a cage in and go. It might spark some interest in those wanting to start racing, but cant afford to build one for the current division. Teching would be critical in this class... what about having a techman for final decisions, but let the drivers tech each other? That way its all out in the open.. no doubts about anything.
Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jun 9, 2012 6:22:38 GMT -5
With the track being that small, there's not near as much force on the wheels like at the bigger tracks. I've seen stock wheels work at Wayne County and Watertown with no problems. If it came down to it, we could allow one racing wheel on the right front, but make it the smallest offset available.
We will see how things go, then try to get something going if enough interest. Some of the best racing i've ever seen was at Watertown in the Stock Chevette.
dustin thats how most of us started was stock.. we got the vette fever and kept getting faster. if people start stock and cheap they will build faster cars later for our class. i think its a good idea. stephen have you talked to tommy and are we just racing the one race or every week...
Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jun 10, 2012 2:22:35 GMT -5
Jason's right... Someone with a stock Chevette could easily convert over to the modified class with a little work. The pure stocks would run with the modifieds until they had enough for their own class, so its a win - win situation.
I've got a couple of sets of Pure Stock rules in mind. I'll post them tomorrow and we all can discuss who wants what. I'm gonna try to talk to Tommy this week and see what his intentions are with the track.
If all goes well, I know I will build one, maybe 2 Pure Stocks.
Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jun 10, 2012 12:08:35 GMT -5
Here's a basic set of rules I came up with. Feel free to chime in and discuss any changes you would like to see. If Tommy gives us the go ahead on this class, we will have a rules meeting and let everyone vote.
Pure Stock Chevette Rules: Example Set #1
BODY & FRAME:
1. Stock bodies only. No aluminum panels. Damaged panels may be replaced with “x.xxx” (To be determined) thickness steel. 2. Plastic nose and tail pieces allowed. 3. May remove inner fender wells and excess metal. Rear fender wells must be covered and shield the driver. 4. Stock unibody may be tied together with tubing. No full tube chassis. Frame rails must be stock from firewall forward, and behind rear shock towers. 5. Must have stock firewall and full floor pan. 6. Minimum 4 point roll cage with 3 drivers side door bars - 1 1/2” x .095” tubing. 7. Enclosures allowed. Must have inspection doors. 8. Stock bumpers may be replaced with tubing. 9. Maximum 4” spoiler allowed.
STEERING & SUSPENSION:
1. Must be entirely stock. 2. Stock springs and shocks only. May cut springs to desired height. Spring rubbers and / or twist in spacers allowed. No weight jacks or adjustable spring buckets. Non-adjustable steel bodied shocks only. Must mount in stock location. May interchange makes (Ford Bronco, Etc.) $25 buy rule per shock. 3. Upper A-arms may be modified for camber adjustments only. 4. Front sway bar optional. If left on car, it may not be adjustable. 5. Panhard bar mount may be fabricated or braced. Must be in stock location and height. (Measurement to be determined). 6. All other suspension components must remain stock and in the stock location.
WHEELS & TIRES:
1. Stock steel wheels only. May use 13x7” x 1” - backspacing racing wheel on right front. No beadlock. 2. DOT street tires only. No high performance rated tires (V - ZR - W - Y).
1. 1.4 - 1.6L Gas engines only. 2. Maximum bore - 3.288” (0.060” over + 0.008” tolerance). 3. Cast dish or flat top pistons only. No floating wrist pins. 4. Pistons may be even with deck. (+/- 0.003”) 5. Stock Rods. May not be lightened or polished. 6. Stock Crank. May not stroke, lighten, knife edge or polish. 7. Head may be milled to 3.500”. No porting or polishing. Stock valves only. No under cut or swirl polished valves. 8. Stock profile hydraulic cam and lifters only. 9. Must use 1 barrel intake with 1 barrel carb. Or 2 barrel intake with 2 barrel carb. No adapter plates. Intake must be completely stock, no porting or polishing. 10. Any carburetor allowed that will bolt to stock base plate. No adapter plates or spacers. 11. Stock exhaust manifolds only. 12. Stock ignition. May lock advance in distributor. No high performance control modules or coils. 13. Maximum 200 PSI compression.
1. Maximum 93 Octane. No performance additives. No racing fuel. 2. No electric fuel pumps.
1. 4 speed or automatic transmissions only. No 5 speeds. Automatic must have working converter. All forward and reverse gears must work. 2. Clutch & flywheel must be stock. No lightening. 3. Stock steel drive shafts only. 4. Stock rear end. Any ratio. May be locked.
1. Aftermarket aluminum radiators allowed. 2. Electric fans allowed. 3. No Antifreeze.
1. Aluminum seat mandatory. 2. Must have 5 point racing harness. 3. Must have window net that releases from the top. 4. 3 window bars mandatory in front of driver. 5. Master shut off switch must be installed within reach of driver. 6. Maximum 8 gallon fuel cell. Must be securely mounted and covered. 7. Fire extinguisher must be mounted within reach of driver. 8. Drive shaft must be painted white. Drive shaft loop recommended. 9. Added weight must be painted white and securely mounted. 10. Front and rear brakes must be in proper working condition. 11. DOT approved helmet and SFI rated fire suite mandatory. Neck restraints, gloves, and racing shoes highly recommended. 12. Mirrors allowed. 13. No radios.
Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jun 11, 2012 17:26:00 GMT -5
I always hated a buy rule, but if thats what the majority votes on we'll do it. It would have to be worth while, not some low ball price, because if someone buys the winner's motor, he's down for a few weeks and out time and money building a new one.
Yeah in this class a buy rule would keep people from cheating maybe. But it should be if you buy the winners motor he gets yours so he can go home and fix it so he can beat you with your own motor the next week LMAO