I am looking at buying a remanufactured Weber 32/36 DGV on eBay. Just wanted to know something, do they operate mechanically or are they vacuum powered like the Holley 5210, and 6510? Is there a site or book that tells the differences between the the Holleys and the Webers? I have not found one yet myself.
Also would it be a better idea to get a DGV or an electric-choke DGEV? They are around the same price, but I haven't had much luck with the electric choke on the Holley carb I have now.
If I remember correctly, the Holley carbs were based off of these very Webers. Is there a clear cut way to confirm that a carb is a Weber just by looking at it? I just do not want to be ripped off and end up with a Holley look-alike.
I apologize for all the questions, but it is better to be informed than lost in the dark, especially when money is on the line.
the early 5210 and 5200 were not vacuum they were all mach.-the weber 32/36 is a mach. carb and most have the electric choke,,sence holley owns weber they use there carbs for the hi/pro stuf,i would look ar www.webercarbs.com they have a ton of info,the 5200 and 5210 along with the 32/36 are all 350 cfm carbs buts the weber is a little better carb,i like the 38/38 myself but you have to redo the gas cable
What do you mean by "redoing the gas cable?" Is the current one too small or something? I am interested in the 38/38, and I have the money to afford one. I figure if I am going to upgrade the performance, might as well go all out It's only around $50 more than a new 32/36 anyway.
Is there supposed to be a manual choke version of the 38/38, and are they all synchronous carbs? I noticed there is a DGES 38, but I do not know if there is supposed to be a manual one.
Is it a hard modification, or is there some fabrication involved?
Last Edit: May 21, 2009 12:03:33 GMT -5 by alohaman
you stock cable will work ,the stock carb pulls toward the motor to open,the 38 pulles toward the fender to open,i took the cable bracket off the top of the motor and used it to make a bracket that bolts to the shock , my weber is a 38dgas i think
Is that one of them? It says it has a manual choke, but all I am turning up online is that there are only electric and water operated chokes for the 38's. You said yours is a DGAS, what sort of choke did it come with?
How can I be sure it is an actual Weber and not a knock-off?
I am going to check a couple of places around town as well, they might be able to bring in a 38/38 for a good price.
Ironically that helped in not the way it was intended to lol. I was able to compare the pictures of the manual choke 38 I listed and the electric choke 38's you listed. The 38 I listed is definitely the same, thank goodness.
Those are good prices, but I have been fooled by junkyard stuff before. My T-5 ended up costing over $1000 parts and labour for a rebuild because although it looked good on the outside and it shifted all right, it was rusted on the inside and the bearings were shot. The tranny cancelled out the engine's noise, which is saying something. Works beautifully now though and is pretty quiet despite me having no console.
I'd rather buy new, even if it will cost me extra.
Found an interesting nugget from a guy who built an Austin Mini 4x4 with a Chevette powertrain. He used the mechanical fuel injection system from a 1987 VW Golf/Rabbit and made only a few modifications. Apparently it bolts right onto the stock intake. Darryl Lowes on the other Chevette forums said he worked with a CIS system before and said it was not that great though, he'd rather have the carburetor. Go figure, still that's pretty cool.
Yeah it is pretty interesting to see the carb inside and out. The diesel chevette site is always interesting to come back to, and I am glad someone took the time to keep it online when the original owner of the site could not do so anymore.
d**n, I am still conflicted. I want a bit more pep to my old '84 but I do not want to sacrifice too much of the fuel economy. I have been able to get a 7.5L/100km average around the city out of the original engine configuration with controlled driving and a bit of hypermiling on my part (nothing dangerous of course). Theres going to be a few MPG's sacrificed thanks to the new head, maybe the dual exhaust manifold and turbo muffler will compensate a bit though.
Any recommendations on what brand of muffler to use? I have heard Magnaflow's are really nice, Flowmaster is also not that bad, and I have heard good and bad about Cherry Bombs.
rad15E - Are you sure your 38/38 is a DGAS, that's the Aqua/water based choke. If it came with an electric choke than it is a DGES, if it came with a manual, then it should be a DGMS.
Could you guys tell me what kind of fuel economy you have gotten with the two different carburetors compared with the amount of performance gained? I know that probably does not make sense since this is a Chevette racing board, but I am driving a street car and it is bad enough that I do not have a catalytic converter installed (the car came that way).
So far the two carburetors I am debating myself on are these two, the 32/36 DGV is a remanufactured one, but the seller has a very solid reputation. The other is a brand new in the box 38/38 from another solid seller. These are the links:
I have been waiting on buying either due to the Canadian dollar rising up again. Sorry for all the questions, but I figure it is better to be safe and get all the info I can than regret my decision later on.
Last Edit: May 27, 2009 16:27:57 GMT -5 by alohaman
yes i do have a DGAS and a DGES all of the dg series carbs are the same basic carb other than the choke and the vacuum ports,sence we remove all the choke mech. i don't really no which is best and for milage our engines go from idle to 7k rpm lol in our weather tho we rarely need a choke ,but if i was wanting a little kick in the but the 490 cfm is the way to go compared to the 350 cfm
The rule of thumb is 2 to 2.2 cfm per HP ( I just found that ). I think that if you just want a little kick over the original carb, you will be good with the 32/36. This carb, compared to the 38/38, let you run on one runner, because 32/36 is not synchroneous, then keep gas millage on the good side when you want it so. I remember that the engine got no cam, no big valves or porting, cast exhaust manifold, original intake and original compression ratio. I don't see the need for a 38/38. I personally went with the 38/38 but my setup will have what's needed to reach near 200hp.
7000 rpm in a Chevette with no sound deadening, I thought having a sub woofer in one of these cars was bad enough for one's ear drums lol.
Technically it won't have the same compression ratio anymore. Due to the head swap and all, and the head was completely re-done, planed and everything. If the car came with flat tops, that might change things. Free-flowing exhaust will mix things up a bit and the dual manifold instead of the old single one also. The cam, you are correct, will stay stock, since most of the performance ones are designed to run at higher rpms. I'm trying for around 90 or so HP. With the 5-speed and maybe some weight reduction, it should move at a pretty good pace even if it is a 4-door.
Good to know what the actual Chevette Holley weighs in at in terms of performance. The 32/36 really does give it a kick in comparison, and keeps the fuel economy. The 38/38 is really heavy and might be too much. I will talk with the mechanic working on the car right now and see what he would do.
Thanks a lot, that was exactly the info I needed from both, just have to wait for the dollar to rise a bit more hehe