1. BODY - American made rear wheel drive cars. Stock body’s only doors maybe replaced with sheet metal
2. SPOILER - 6” high, no wider than trunk lid - any angle 3 spoiler side supports allowed 6- inches high, 10-inch long maximum.
3. CHASSIS -
A. Stock frame front to rear.
B. Stock A frames, no modifications.
C. Stock rear suspension for type of vehicle.
D. Standard steering box and steering linkage. Heim joint allowed on spindle end of tie rod for bump/Ackerman steer adjustment. No aftermarket rack and pinion steering.
E. Coil Springs - must be minimum 5- inch diameter. Stock appearing replacements allowed.
F. Stock appearing shocks allowed, must be mounted in stock location.
G. Roll cage - Must be minimum of 1 1/2 inch OD tubing .095- inch thick. Must have minimum of three driver door bars and two passenger door bars. Must have support bars behind driver. Must be welded to the frame.
H. Steel brake rotors and calipers.
I. May remove front inner fenders and radiator support.
4. WHEEL BASE - 108 inch maximum.
5. WHEELS - steel racing wheel, 8 - inch maximum width racing wheels and tires optional or DOT street tires. No carbon Fiber. Bead locks not allowed.
6. RACING FUEL CELL - enclosed in steel case with minimum of two 2” wide steel straps.
7. FUEL - Gasoline (no nitrous or additives).
8. TIRES - Can run 8” racing tires or street tread tires.
9. DRIVE SHAFT - Any steel type, Must be painted white, also have car number on it. Safety loop mandatory.
10. REAR END - Any OEM allowed. Must have steel axle tubes.
11. TRANSMISSION - Must be OEM, must have working clutch and reverse.
12. ENGINE -
A. Stock engines.
B. Block - Steel only.
C. Rods - Steel OEM rod.
D. Head - Steel OEM head allowed. OEM steel valve allowed (no titanium). Porting and polishing not allowed. No aluminum or aftermarket heads allowed.
E. Piston - Flat top piston only.
F. Rocker arms - OEM
G. Intake - OEM, adapter plate allowed.
H. Carburetor - One two barrel. 2300 series only, chock horn may be removed.
I. Camshaft - Flat tappet OEM.
J. Oiling system - Wet Sump only, no outside pumps.
K. Flywheel - Flywheel components must remain stock.
L. Headers or manifold optional.
M. Engine buyout - Engine buyout on winning car is $400.00. Can be claimed by any driver in feature race or by the track. One time refusal to sell must move up. Anything that touches motor oil is part of the motor. Anything that does not touch oil is not part of the motor.
13. WEIGHT - One LB per CC. After the race with driver. Must be posted on driver side of car.
14. ENGINE SETBACK - No engine set back. Must be in stock location.
15. TRACTION - No traction control devices of any kind allowed.
16. IGNITION -OEM
17. SAFETY -
A. Must have three steel vertical bars mounted in windshield opening in front of driver.
B. Must have aluminum seat.
C. Must have four point harness.
D. Must have fire extinguisher mounted in the car, easily accessible and in working order.
E. Battery must be securely mounted in box or case. If the battery is inside the car, it must have a cover.
F. Add on weights and drive shaft must be painted white with car number on them and weights must be securely bolted to the car.
G. Must have full fire suit for every driver.
H. Must have DOT or Snell approved helmet.
I. Window net recommended.
J. Fire retardant gloves recommended..
IF NOT SPECIFICALLY MENTIONED IN THESE RULES, CAR MUST REMAIN STOCK TO MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFICATIONS FOR YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL.
Found this website after seeing the advertisement on lsn about chevette racing, if y'all do end up doing a stock class and having regular races, I will do my best to put together a car and race, I think it would be a huge hit, buy a cheap car try it if like it build a hotter one for other classes.
Last Edit: Jul 15, 2012 19:18:20 GMT -5 by thrasher
this has done been talked about but we are going to have to have 12-15 cars in the class we have now to start another class and the track to pay another purse lol! but at this track a stock car can win the race if you can drive it!
I'm gonna try to make it this weekend, as long as I don't have to work, I have a kind of odd career for a 23yr old redneck male, I'm a nurse, not sure of schedule for wknd, if I can't make it this wknd I'm def gonna stay on this site and keep gettin info, im sure buying a built car would be cheaper than building one, but what kind of price would I be lookin to build/buy a car?(would be doing the work myself, with my grandpa helpin with the welding) also is there a rule list anywhere? Also where else do they have races? Crossville anywhere else?
There is a car on here in the for sale items for $1000 i am sure thats your cheapest way out and its race ready! We are no longer racing at crossville because the owner was trying to do us wrong. But these cars are also raced in ohio at moler speedway park. We can go to spring city and race with the pony stock class! If we all stick together we will always have a place to race! 111 speedway is going to be our home track now!
Post by DOCTOR FIELDS on Jul 16, 2012 18:45:46 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum Thrasher! Good to see local guys interested in getting the Chevette division built back up!
Dustin's right, buying one race ready will be the cheapest route to get started. There's one on Racing Junk in Ohio for $1,000 as well.
I haven't talked to Tommy about a stock class yet, but i'm sure he would be all for it. This is just an idea we are tossing around. It would be affordable, fair, and most importantly FUN! Another idea I had was when stock Chevettes started showing up and being ran with the modified class, maybe whoever finishes the highest out of the stock Chevettes will be declared the winner of their division, even though they are running against modifieds. That could be done until there's enough for their own class.
Like I said, you can always modify a stock car and move up with the rules we are discussing.
Hope you can make it one night this week. Be sure to stop by and introduce yourself if you come!