building a chevette 1.6 (HELP)

[badvett]

Hi, new to building the chevette motor. I have owned a chevette since i was 18. I have a 76 chevette with a buick 3.8 v6 with a B&M 144 blower. I want to build a nice street 1.6 for my other 76 chevette. What i have is a 1.6 short block stock #357153 I have silvolite .030 pistons. Havent pulled apart yet to get machine work done. I have a 1.4 head that was rebuilt stock #357151. Has reground cam. Im just trying to make a nice street motor to have fun with. Ive heard the 1.4 head on the 1.6 will make it faster? Any help would be apriciated. Shawn in Reno nv.

[hydroli]

Hi badvett,

I'm currently building a 1.6 turbo setup. I'm not as good as some engine builders like fields but by searching for my own setup I found some informations that could help you.

- First of all, there are some head casting numbers that are better than others, do some search on the forum, they are shown somewhere. You have to get away of the stock swirl port heads, or at least doing a good porting job to it.

- A dual outlet H.O. manifold is a good start if you dont want to make a custom header, I have a H.O. manifold for sale for cheap if you are interested, but the second option is better if you have the skills to build one, I also have a stainless flange for sale to build one.

- A good cam is a rare part, Lunati still makes one, it is a mild grind, 278 degree, +/- 2300-6500 rpm range, do some search, I don't know more companies that are still making custom grinds for it, but it may be more.

- On the diesel chevette website you will find some infos on a better carb. For example, a weber 32/36 would be better than the stock carb and will fit without more modifications than changing the pin where the throttle cable hook to the carb.

- A colder thermostat is a good idea. I passed from a 195 to a 180.

- An electric fan will help

- A full ignition advance setup helps too, but can anyone confirm what I say? Unplug the vacuum advance, place the advance at 26 degrees while idling and arrange your mechanical advance so the max advance will be 38 degrees, not more! You do it by installing a wood screw on which the advance weights will bump, keeping it from passing over 38 degrees. Let the vacuum unplug, the engine will accelerate faster.

- Placing a .080 shim behind the release valve spring of the oil pump will help the crank to withstand hard conditions. I placed a .125 shim but I'm not sure if it is good. Take an eye to the little external hole on the bottom plate of the pump while doing it cause it will obstruct a little.

- msd ignition, nitrous, stroker crank, long rod, custom pistons (contact fields), big valves in the head, solid lifters instead of hydraulic, balanced rotary kit means free power and more durability, anything other than 3.36 for rear-end ratio, 5 speeds trans and turbo are to keep in mind if you have some money to invest.

- I heard of as much as 170hp normally aspirated from this little engine. I'm personally trying to make something like 200hp with the turbo.

Olivier