Misc. questions on racing engines

[hydroli]

Hi,

I'm near to the end of my 1.6 buildup and I still have some more questions.

- First question is for Fields. I seen a picture on your web page on which it was an engine with two timing belt binders. My head has been shaved a lot* as I said in a previous post and I think it's in such situation that a second binder has to be installed. I can't find the picture anymore, could you post the url here please?

- Next is about the spark plugs. I seen alot of spark plugs on the summitracing web site that can be used on a chevette. I don't know which one to choose. Cost is not a matter, I want to know what to choose for my setup. I have a turbo*, a msd6 Btm Ignition box, and a 48000 volts coil. I heard that I should choose a colder plug... ok, but at first I want to know what do you use and why.

- Ignition module. Could I change it to upgrade my ignition system or is the msd6 box sort of remote ignition module?

- How high should I adjust my rev limiter with a stock bottom end? My rotating parts seems to take high rpm pretty well, no excessive vibrations.

- Are there racing cap and rotor somewhere else?

- What do you use to replace stock valve cover grommets?

*Please dont comment on the shaved head with turbo, I ported the combustion chambers and installed two head gaskets to get rid of the too high comp. ratio. Timing retard will be greater as boost raises, what masd6 btm box is made for. Water injection will be added as soon as 3 pounds of boost and I won't use cheap gas. I choosed the cam I had with the most overlap to reduce the effective compression.

Thanks all for your help on this project.

Just ask if you have questions.

[DOCTOR FIELDS]

I don't have that picture online anymore, it's on a disc somewhere.

You'll probably have to experiment with different plugs, until you get it right.

MSD box replaces the ignition module.

No more than 6000 under boost. Especially with stock bottom end.

A good over the counter brand cap and rotor will do just fine. I don't think there's any racing caps or rotors that fit.

What are you refering to by valve cover grommets?

You say you ported the combustion chambers? What exactly did you do to them? It don't take much to decrease flow.

[hydroli]

Hi Fields,

By grommet, I'm talking of the rubbers that holds the pcv valve and tube that normally goes to the air filter bowl.

I did porting in combustion chamber to reduce static compression ratio, it wasn't to help flow.

Concerning the second binder, is it any holder that goes there? If it is one, how much would it cost to get it from you?

Thanks a hundred time

Hydroli

[DOCTOR FIELDS]

Why didn't you start with a different head? Anytime you remove material from the combustion chambers you change the flow characteristics. You have most likely hurt the performance greatly by doing this. Nothing personal, but this whole project sounds like a rigged up mess. 2 head gaskets, ported combustion chambers to reduce compression, stock bottom end with a turbo?

Not trying to put you down, but if you're going to do it, do it right the first time...

[hydroli]

Please don't worry for me. I know I ask alot of questions but it doesn't mean I know nothing about engine performance and how to build it. In fact I'm a machinist and all the work I've done has been measured and calculated. There are some areas where I follow rules of thumb like with the water injection and oil pump modification, but for the rest, nothing has been left aside.

The use of this head is justified because it's already ported, it has big valves and because I found a way to get acceptable comp. ratio, I saved two days of labor. I'm not ready to put big valves in my stock head, I'm not rich at all right now.

I have to have this car ready to roll before the snow's all gone. I have a broken engine in the car and it's my only one car.

For the second binder, I just found that the casting that holds the alternator in place has a hole at the same height as the one that hold the original one in place. I wasn't able to figure this before because when I asked earlier, the part was freshly painted.

Is it any way I can post pictures in the forum?

[hydroli]

I was wrong about the way to hold the second binder in place. How much for the bracket?

[DOCTOR FIELDS]

I don't have these anymore. It's just a simple spacer that goes behind the tensioner to bring it out even with the belt. We used the top Alt. bracket hole. Make sure its true on both ends, a buddy of mine tried to make one and cut it to length with a sawzall, after he install it, it threw the belt off.

You can also make a sleeve that presses over the exsisting tensioner to fatten it up and elminate the need for 2 tensioners.

[hydroli]

Ok, thanks alot!

Olivier (Hydroli)

[thebest]

hydroloi, you can get a 99 tooth belt and you can run it with out tension er at all. little tight but never had a problem with cam carage. or engine bearings i turned it 8600 rpms. plugs i ran bosch platinum 4r's never fouled one and they have been oil soaked.

[hydroli]

Hi thebest,

Thanks for your help. I'll search for parts you mentionned.

HydrOli

[hydroli]

Bosch platinum plugs are too hot for a turbo setup. It was a good suggestion.

[hydroli]

Does anyone heard of the Pulstar plugs?

Here is a link of the direct replacement plug for the chevette.

sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=r42ts&seenCrossWarning=1

You can read why it's soo high priced. I wonder if it would be ok to run a multispark msd6 box with it?

[DOCTOR FIELDS]

They're probably something similar to the Denso Iridium spark plugs. I've never used them, but heard they have the least resistance of any spark plug. Never heard of Pulstar before?

[hydroli]

No I never heard of suchs a sophisticated plug before.

It has an intagrated circuit which provide multiple sparks and higher voltage, less wasted energy. You can read all this by following the key word.

sparkplugs.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Pulstar+Pulse+Plug